Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Henry Penny- one one Victoria's greatest butchers.

Henry Penny may not read this, the guy is old enough not have a computer in his office, just old school docket books and an old phone. In the shop, the countless butchers work away with skill and precision, it looks like a scene out of a Marco restaurant. They are serious, but also fun loving, following in tradition they give all kids a slice of DON pariser upon entry.
In the office, Henry keeps a vigilant eye on things in this very very busy butcher shop - whilst he takes phone orders all day from chefs.
Henry Penny, known to many, a pioneer in the VIC meat industry, the following lamb recipe is warmly dedicated to this man who never ceases to inspire me with his energy and passion for food.

LOCAL LAMB, LOCAL YOGURT, honey carrots

This is ultimately a very easy recipe. Importantly, you need good lamb which is dry aged a little, see Henners!
first take some young carrots and clean them. rather than peel them leaving lines - and in order to keep the beautiful undulations intact - blanche them for 30 sec, then put them in cold water (un iced) and allow them to sit. then after a minute or two, you can rub the skin off, leaving the carrot looking lovely. once clean - boil them in a small amount of the same water (just, if not even covering them) for one minute further. then add a generous amount of honey and reduce.

 place the lamb fat side down in a heavy tray on heat. you can use a heavy pan. render the baby on low. no oil is needed.
the fat will become pretty. 

 and more so, with heat still on low.
 but it is still uncooked meat! so then lay the meat down the opposite way it began and cover it with a large stainless bowl or similar. I am using a Gastronorme deep tray (for ice creams) and stove top oven is created. Why not use the oven? dries it out. short of using sous vide (under vacuum) method, I think this is the best way to retain great flavour and texture.  the heat can be on medium now for 10- 15 minutes.


here is one way to stand the lamb up for a couple of minutes cooking time, 

 done. allow it to rest with the gas off. in its own fat.
 my new mazzer grinder. and some Meredith sheep's milk yogurt, local of course. such a magnificent texture and depth of flavour, its second only to Grampians Sheep's milk yogurt.
cut the lamb, and allow it rest a second time somewhere warm. like for instance the top of a coffee machine in a bowl! don;t worry if it looks a little rare. this will change as it rests. 

plating

carrot caramel

note the way the meat has rested to a medium rare that took at least 3-5 minutes.  

that is a piece of the  crispy skin. hot damn, seriously challenges suckling pig crackling. 

you will find the natural juices of the lamb, together with the honey, carotene sauce, mixed with the yogurt produces a magnificent nutty flavour, with salt and sweet. With lamb prices at an all time high, this dish really is a thing of beauty - thanks Henry.